![]() ![]() take care to collect the excess and not let it get on the stock where its not masked or on the barreled action where its not released. once you bolt the two together you should have a good amount of surplus epoxy running out between the barrel and stock. ![]() You will want to mask the outside of the stock to protect from epoxy squeeze-out. Now that ive thoroughly scared the bejesus out of you its time to bolt the two together and spend an hour or so on damage control. And leave the bolt out of it, just in case you get some epoxy into the action via the front action screw. And take care to make darn sure you have plenty of release packed into and around the recoil lug recess in the action, as well as the action screws. ![]() Mix enough Epoxy so that you will have adequate squeeze-out when you mate the barreled action to the stock. the paste that comes in a small flat can. One of the cheapest sources, and one I use myself, is Kiwi neutral shoe polish. Many things can be used as a release agent. Also a good idea to apply some in the action area of the stock, the rule of thumb is, anywhere you don't want epoxy to be permanently bonded, put release. apply a release agent to the barreled action and tape. Wrap the barrel with a couple layers of electrical tape so that it will float over the epoxy bed afterward. But you don't want it to contact the barrel after its set and done. In this case Alb you will pretty much want to bed the entire fore end to the barrel. Once the superglue is set and dry tot he touch its time to ready your epoxy. I find superglue works fantastically, and use Gorilla glue brand Super Glue and a small flux brush, available at any hardware store in the pipe sweat dept. The next trick to getting the epoxy to permanently bond with the stock is to prep the surface of the bedding area with something that absolutely does bind with fiberglass reinforced plastics. You will need to prep the surface to be epoxied by sanding it rough and drilling holes all in it to increase the surface area the epoxy will come into contact with. The cheapest form of usable epoxy suitable too this task is JB Weld. Resin cubes will come out of the ice trays like ice cubes do from an ice cube mold.Įpoxy works best, but will need somewhat of a modified surface to adhere to. Fiberglass resin looks great at first, then just shoot it a couple times and then take the barreled action back loose and take a look. The problem youre going to have Alb is getting something to bond to the plastic stock. ![]()
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